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Séminaire José Alcina 18 septembre

13 septembre 2012

Present and future challenges in Swash Zone sediment transport

Mardi 18 Septembre à 14h30

Amphithéâtre Nougaro

José Alcina

Dept. Ingegneria Civile, Edile e Architettura (DICEA). Università Politecnica delle Marche, Ancona, Italy

Résumé :

Sediment transport in coastal areas is the result of complex flow-sediment interactions occurring at different time and space scales (i.e. scale of turbulence, incident and long waves, bed forms, beach shape). Such interactions are far from being fully understood and determine the coastal shape evolution as a whole.
Traditionally, sediment transport models have been widely used and incorporated into morphodynamic numerical models to make predictions of topographic coastal response. They makes a series of simplifications and assumptions of the sediment transport phenomena in order to upscale process and/or to introduce all the uncertainties in empirical coefficients that requires an ad hoc calibration. This type of models have shown some skills in short term predictions of surf areas but completely fail in the swash zone.
The swash zone is that part of the beach alternatively emerged and submerged by the wave action. It is said to be the most dynamic beach area and where an important part of the total beach sediment transport takes place.
In this seminar, the swash zone dynamic and its complexity will be revised explaining the points of failure of traditional sediment transport models and its importance to understand the beach morphodynamics. Recent experimental and field work in the swash zone will be shown illustrating the role of sediment advection and wave-swash interactions in the total swash zone sediment transport. Future research perspectives on the topic will be also discussed.